So you know what's might be even better than hiking Sapa? Biking Sapa! My Mom and I spent an entire day riding motorbikes through the countryside.
If anyone travels to Sapa, I would highly recommend this organization Ethos for any homestays or guided experiences. They work directly with the Hmong and Dao communities to make sure that their tourism is both culturally sensitive and benefits the local people.
Our motorbike tour was not only adventuresome, but so educational as well. During the hour-long inroduction before we started riding, we learned so much about the ethnic Hmong and Dao minorities in Sapa. Historically, the Hmong have been a nomadic people, but the Vietnamese government prohibited them from continuing to move on. As the last to arrive, they had to figure out how to farm the most rugged land at the highest elevations. While the terraced fields are gorgeous, they are not the most productive and obviously extremely labor intensive. In general, the Hmong have shrugged off strong Vietnamese initiatives to force assimilation, retaining their disctinct cultural heritage, whether in language or dress. While most Hmong in Sapa can speak Viet, they don't consider themselves to be Vietnamese.The Hmong sometimes assisted US troops during the Vietnam war, further dividing them from the Vietnamese. Perhaps in retaliation, there have not been many resources dedicated to infrastructure like schools, hospitals, and roads in the area. As for the Dao, they arrived in Vietnam before the Hmong and were thus able to settle on land at slightly lower elevation resulting in a somewhat better harvest.
Both the Dao and the Hmong have distinct languages and cultures, wearing traditional clothing that is beautifully dyed and embroidered. Even among these ethnic groups, there are many subgroups. For example, I learned that the black Hmong are called "black" because they dye their clothes such a deep indigo that it appears black. Here are some examples of traditional clothing on display at the Ethos home.
Ethos also uses some of its profits for development projects, like this one for supporting prenatal care and childbirth--something I feel passionately about.
Our motorbike guides for the day were two beautiful women, My and Ta May. My (pictured in the pink scarf) is Hmong. She never had the chance to go to school, having been left to raise her sisters after her mother was trafficked to China when she was ten. (Her mother was likewise illiterate, placing her at higher risk for human trafficking.) My was married when she was fifteen with no access to birth control and has three children. (Technically she was engaged, but in Hmong culture she explained that girls typically date for a few days, get engaged, then move in with their future husbands until their wedding a few years later.) Her children were all born via C-section, but no one ever explained to her why she needed a C-section. Healthcare was supposedly free, but she said that while the C-section was being performed, they gave her husband a prescription to purchase the thread to stitch her back up.
Despite all of these difficulties, My is one of the brightest souls you will ever meet! She is bright in the sense of incredibly intelligent, switching between Hmong, English and Viet with enviable fluency. She possesses a deep emotional intelligence that allows her to immediately connect with others. Most importantly, she is so bright in the sense of joyful and full of hope. She is working to build a beautiful life for her family. While My never went to school, she is making sure that her younger sister and children all get an education. (Her sister is currently on scholarship earning a tourism degree with Ethos,)
Ta May (center) is much quieter but also wonderful. She also has three children, but was married much later at age 29. Ta May likewise never had any formal education, but uses the income she brings in from tourism to support her family.
Here's NomiAnn getting all geared up for our journey.
Aventura! Riding pillion (passenger) was actually way more fun because you could look around instead of constantly watching the road.
Proof that my Mom is young.
My and Ta May were shocked that we'd never eaten a fresh papaya!
Oops! This nail ended up in the tire of the motorbike Ta May and I were riding. It took a little time, but luckily we were able to get another tube and keep going.
Green tea fields.
Anyone want a banana?
Best day ever.
Best guides too.
Y'all know I'm a sucker for mountains.
The Hmong and Dao baby carriers are so beautiful!
A few videos to capture the experience:
Because of our tire delay, it was definitely getting later by the time we arrived for our homestay lunch. This lovely older gentleman welcomed us into his home to eat the meal his daugher-in-law had prepared. His son was out working in the fields.
On the men: squash, pork, mustard greens, and water buffalo stomach. And yes! I ate the buffalo tripe--quite chewy, but decent flavor if you can get past the gray color. I felt like I couldn't say no having just refused both the tea and alcohol.
Annika would have liked the baby ducklings.
The best part about running behind schedule is that we made it to the O Quy Ho Pass with views of Fansipan right at sunset. Spectacular!
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