Tuesday, November 24, 2020

Grand Canyon Gratitude

While not perfect, I am grateful for a strong body.  This fall I have done quite a bit of trail running. 

 I love exploring new places, such as this Z-line trail recommended by Uncle Justin.


I've discovered a back route to the Living Room up above Red Butte Garden...


...and a back route to Ensign Peak, literally through Hell Canyon.  


On one voyage up Ensign Peak, I discovered this older couple holding a family history day, complete with handouts and flags.  They were honoring their ancestor, Joel H. Johnson, who wrote the lyrics to High on the Mountain Top.

They asked a couple of other girls and myself if we would sing with them--and we did!  (I kept a far distance, largely because I smelled so bad from running the steep 2.5 miles up.)  It was a special moment of connection, especially during these Covid times.

I've had some special experiences closer to home, such as when I ran across this thoughtful message on the Bonneville Shoreline Trail.  

It was only fitting that I crossed paths with my sweetheart just a couple of minutes after.

I've had my moments of mishap too, such as when I rolled my ankle coming down City Creek Canyon on Halloween.  No major damage, but it swelled impressively.


 My primary motivation with all of this running was to get ready for Rim2Rim.  If you have no idea what Rim2Rim is, well, neither did I.  It was Talia's amazing running coach Tara who originally suggested the idea of trotting from one side of the Grand Canyon to the other.  We had a group of five that was planning to go down together.  In the end, we decided against it because coronavirus case counts were so high.  Also, access to the north rim of the Grand Canyon had been shut down due to snow.  I was sad, but resigned to postponing our adventure, at least until spring.

When Jason got back from Phoenix, he mentioned that the north rim had re-opened.  At that moment, I realized how much I still wanted to give Rim2Rim a try.  At my age, getting physically prepared to tackle the Grand Canyon is a major feat.  I wasn't ready to give it up.  On a whim, I asked Kim, the Launch Team Director, if she would want to run it with me still.  And she said yes!

In the end, it worked out really well.  Kim and I are a year apart in age and somewhat matched in pace, although she's still way faster than I am.   We shared a strategy of running the downs, hiking the ups, with the overall goal of enjoying the journey.  Jason was an angel and offered to shuttle us (with everyone masked, of course.)  That's a huge deal.  The Grand Canyon is so immense that the drive from one side of the canyon to the other is 300 miles and five hours long.  I'll be forever grateful, Peanut Butter.

Since lodging along the North Rim is shut down this time of year, we ended up staying in Kanab, about a two hour drive away.  We arrived around 7:00 am, just after dawn, and took a few minutes to take some pictures of the canyon depths that would soon surround us.

In the early-morning light, the canyon felt so peaceful and inviting.



The immensity of the Grand Canyon is nearly impossible to capture in a photograph.  Even being down inside, it is hard to get a sense of scale.  The morning light probably showcases it best.

I'm still amazed that we tough mamas made it all the way down and back out.

A few photos at the North Kaibab Trailhead.

The National Park Service website had warnings about about ice on the trail, so embarked on our adventure armed with Yaktrax and plenty of warm layers.

Half a mile in, it became pretty obvious that we were overdressed.  We shed our layers shortly after and never saw any ice or snow.  On the positive side, the trail was in great condition and joggable the whole way down.

Our run to the bottom was pretty darn exhilarating.  Immense rock faces, waterfalls, and big smiles.  We passed several runners headed the other direction who were doing R2R2R.  (One rim to the other and all the way back again.  Amazing, but no thank you.)


Before long, we found ourselves down by the creek.  The trail flattened out for miles, and we were able to pick up our pace.  So fun!  I was surprised by how many bridge crossings there were. 



My favorite section of the trail came before Phantom Ranch when the canyon walls narrowed and we ran through the rocks.



The trail opens up again as you approach Phantom Ranch. The infrastructure is quite extensive, complete with composting toilets, water stations, campgrounds, and even a restaurant and store.



The bridge crossing over the Colorado River is likewise impressive.  I hadn't realized how powerful the river is at this point!  And how in the world did they get the materials and equipment in to build it in the first place?




For our ascent, we chose the Bright Angel Trail.  It's longer, but not quite as steep as the South Kaibab Trail.

Plus, mule trains!  Fun to see the animals, just watch out for the poop.  By this point, we'd been hiking up for a while.  When we asked the guide how much farther and she said eight miles, I think we both hoped she was mistaken.  Nope.  Rim2Rim is a long journey.

Persevering up and up.  In many ways, it's as much of a mental game as a physical one.


We finally stopped for lunch at Indian Garden, about 20 miles in.  Kim and I really chuckled at this graphic warning to not hike any farther if unprepared for the heat and exertion.

It's only 4.5 miles from Indian Garden to the South Rim, but you have to switchback your way all the way up to the top of this.  Daunting.

Here's what Jason was up to while we were out adventuring.  I told you it was a long drive!

The route crosses the Colorado River at Lees Ferry, near Page, Arizona.  


Jason saw an assortment of condors, including this one that has been numbered.  As for Kim and I, we didn't see a whole lot of wildlife in the canyon, perhaps because we were moving quickly.  Mostly birds, beetles, and a millipede.

A few more photos from Lees Ferry.  Not the Grand Canyon (yet), but still stunning.


Back to the Grand Canyon, Jason and his sister Christy met up with us for the very final stretch, about a mile and a quarter from the top.  I felt grateful to share their smiles and fresh energy.  It was so kind of Christy to drive up from Phoenix.  She would like to do Rim2Rim someday as well.  All I can say is, yes!  Challenging, but achievable.  

Taking in a few more vistas.  The afternoon light was pretty unforgiving so I had to go back and add shadows to get any sense of the contours and depth.  I wish the sky had a little "You Came from Here" painted on it so that we could see exactly where we began.


So close to the top!  I was bubbling over with adrenaline and endorphins by this point.  Tired, but oh so excited.  



At last!!!  We made the journey from one rim to the other in great time, about eight hours including stops.  Kim's Garmin said we traveled 27 miles, AllTrails says 23.  I suspect the truth is somewhere in between.  

With our hike behind us, we were famished.  At Christy's recommendation, we stopped at a great wood-fired pizza spot called Pizzicletta in Flagstaff to dine outside.  This appetizer was so tasty!

It was a long drive back to our hotel in Kanab, but we made it.  In the morning, we drove through Zion NP on the way home.  We pulled over at our favorite draw to take Kim on a quick hike.  When it comes to picturesque beauty, the Grand Canyon is amazing, but Zion still takes the cake.







Kim, thank you so much for sharing this weekend with us!  Even more than finding a supportive running partner, I'm so grateful to have found a great friend.

And to Peanut Butter, the best friend of all, I have no words.  Thank you for being there for me and making my dreams a priority, even when you have so much going on.  I love you to the bottom of the canyon and back!  I hope you know that whatever your dreams, I'm here for you too.


I can't conclude this post without thanking my sweet children as well.  This amazing crew held the fort all by themselves while we were gone.  When I left, I told them that all they had to do was stay safe and be kind.  Messes and such didn't matter.  Instead, I came home to a sparkling clean house, homemade lasagna, and the sweetest banner.  I'm crying again just thinking about it.  I love my family so much.


For children, spouses, friends, and the majesty of God's creations, #GiveThanks.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hey Milkweed,

So glad you, and your friend, didn't expire on your Rim to Rim grand canyon experience. It is a magnificent ditch. "Water always wins." So pleased you found everything safe and sound when you returned home too. We all have so much to be thankful for! Happy Thanksgiving and "Keep Smiling"!

Crys said...

Wow! This was amazing!