Thursday, August 20, 2026

Day 13: Bilbao & Gaztelugatxe

Looking back at the photos of our adventures, I have to pinch myself. Truly, we were so blessed with special experiences every single day. I am beyond grateful for this time of connection as a family. I'm so glad we made time for each other during this small window before Talia left on her mission and Brooklyn was back and school wasn't in session (well, sort of. Eli and Annika technically should have been in school still, but I think they'd both agree that it was totally worth skipping.)

As Day 13 dawned in Bilbao, some of us headed for another run along the river. Because why not? Frank Gehry's Guggenheim was still spectacular. Plus this time Jason took some amazing pictures. 





The riverfront highlighted some thought-provoking public art.

After getting cleaned up, the kids and I headed out again while Jason worked.

Hey, the Puppy!

This time the scaffolding was down and we got to enjoy the art in full bloom.  By the way, this is just a block away from the intersection where Brooklyn ran into the Wilhoits on a Sunday morning. They were on a Disney Cruise and Brooklyn was here as a missionary, but connecting seemed too difficult to organize. Apparently the Master Organizer up above must have thought it was really important for them to meet after all because they just happened to show up at the same place at the exact same time. What are the chances? As our friend Brian Blackham would say, 100%. 

While we didn't splurge on tickets to see the exhibits, we still enjoyed a great movie about the creation of the Guggenheim.


We were also able to get uncomfortably close to the spider.

Walking to the old town, Brooklyn pointed out Bilbao's trademark paving tiles. I love that each city has its own pattern.

We'd heard amazing things about authentic Bassk cheesecake, so we splurged on a piece to compare with Jason's. In the end, I couldn't pick a winner. The world needs both. All the cheesecake. Please.

Annika wasn't feeling awesome by this point (I think the heat got to her), so she and I took the metro back to Jason. Bilbao's public transit is fantastic! Once I rejoined the other kids, we hopped on the funicular up to the top of the town.

Talia, would you like to explain yourself?


BilbaoBilboBilbaoBilboBilbaoBilboBilbaoBilboBilbao...


Yeah, it's a pretty cool place. But Calle and Adam, we have a question about your Disney Cruise. Bilbao isn't exactly on the coast. Did your cruise ship sail down the river? If so, cool.


Okay, so there's only one place where I feel like poor Jason really missed out by needing to work while we were in Spain. He and Annika weren't there to join us for the most heavenly arepas ever. The place is called Issa's, and if you are ever in Bilbao, don't miss it. For reals. Also, make sure to get the arepas with the tostones. You'll thank me. And in case you need the address, you'll find this Venezuelan treasure in the Deusto, Bilbao at Calle Francisco Macías, 8. (Can you tell I'm hoping to go back some day?)


Had we ended there, it would have been a great day. But intrepid explorers that we are, we all headed out to Gaztelugatxe later in the day as the heat started to subside.

Anyone recognize this jewel of the basque country from the Game of Thrones Dragonstone?


We just don't have many places like this in the States.




You have to climb a ton of stairs to reach the hermitage, but it's worth it.


(Annika seems unconvinced.)

At least there are stations of the cross along the way where you can pray for help.

Or in the worst case scenario, bury your remains.


The chapel honors San Juan (John the Baptist) and is beloved by Basque fisherman.


Peeking inside the church, you can definitely sense the nautical theme. I've never seen an interior like it! So glad we went.

Annika still wanted to swim at a beach, so that evening we looked up a cove to explore. We didn't expect to find a fun zip line on our way to the shore.


Beautiful, although the surf was far too rocky and choppy to swim deep as she hoped.



Still, it was a lovely place to watch the sunset and look for crabs.



(Little did we know that this tiny guy was an omen of adventures to come in Canada. But wait, you'll have to be patient for that story.)

And one more meal shared in our AirBnB. It's funny, but I didn't tire of cooking dinner in the same way that I do at home. Perhaps it was because we didn't have many ingredients so there were was much less decision fatigue about what to make. We bought just what we needed and ate what we bought--both minimalist and luxurious all at the same time.

 

Day 12: San Sebastián

While our aventuras en españa were so legendary that I wish they'd lasted much longer, for the sake of catching up on this blog I'm glad that they didn't.

Even though most of Day 12 was spent in San Sebastián, we started off the morning with a run along the river in Bilbao, just Brooklyn did so often with Hermana Takahashi. Brooklyn says she doesn't like her hair in a super high bun, but I think it's adorable!

Less than a mile away, and we found ourselves jogging past the Bilbao Guggenheim--so iconic!

We also talked Brooklyn into knocking on the door of her old missionary flat. 

Hermana Robinson was so excited to see her! Talia and I were super impressed by the number of stairs she trekked up and down each day, plus the piso is outrageously close to the Guggenheim.  Like a block away, literally. She'd told us as much, but it was still hard to believe that they lived in such a prime location.

Apparently the Puppy was in the process of receiving its bi-annual makeover.




Brooklyn's a running queen! She and I are planning to run the Haunted Half in Provo this October. :)

She also took us by the chapel. Once again, amazing property right in the middle of the city.

Crammed in an elevator? No, Jason talked us all into squeezing into a photo booth we found in the mall we parked at in San Sebastián. 

Our first priority? Meet up with her beautiful companion, Hermana Barber! Hermana Barber was at the very same stage of her mission as when she and Brooklyn were first companions. The trainee is now a trainer, making Hermana Wheeler a grandma.

You can't fake this kind of joy. 

Naturally we all gathered for pizza. It was absolutely amazing, even without the pineapple.

Did I mention we ordered all the pizzas? Gosh, I wish I could teleport back there right that instant. Those pizzas were so good, and I am so hungry. (Not to get too far off topic, but working in pediatric homecare, my daily cuisine is limited to whatever I grab out of the fridge or pantry at five am. Today was slim pickings, so lunch consisted of lemon pepper tuna  packet and a banana cream instant oatmeal that I ate dry...)

These hermanas are the cutest.

Sadly for Hermana Barber and her companion, the playa was off limits. For us tourists, however, it was the perfect way to enjoy the afternoon. This sand art creation was amazing! Here's a process picture followed by one of the final creation.


The water was superb, so we didn't tarry in the sand too long.

Oh wait, I guess the boys did a bit. Mostly they were just trying very hard to keep their eyes strategically averted from some topless situations. Kind of impossible, but I appreciate the effort.


Brooklyn helped Eli with his dribble castle. I was impressed by the bridge!


Best family ever.

 
Also, just keeping Annika alive is tricky some days. Every time we turned around she was swimming fearlessly father and farther away from shore. This gal is a minnow! But sadly without gills, so more swim lessons might be helpful. Swim endurance was super hard pre-transplant so we never did a lot.

Back to land, here are some beautiful shorts of San Sebastian. Right on the border between Spain and France, this is a place I would gladly call home forever.


Especially given the gelato. There was a huge line that was worth every minute of wait. I'd show you photos (would you like a sweet treat, Talia?), but we devoured it too quickly.

Later in the evening we tried to go see el Faro de Gorliz (a lighthouse), but the trail was closed. Fortunately we still had our trusty cheeseboard and an assortment of treats for our picnic.

Hanging out at the waterfront was delightful. The heat of the day melted away, leaving the air salty fresh and calm.

Here's our remarkable Talia. Just days away from becoming a missionary, I know she had so much to reflect on.  With waves lapping at her feet, I hope she felt a piece of God's love for her.
 

Out of all our beach expriences, I think this one was Annika's favorite.
Life really is beautiful.